It’s not easy being the new kid on the block, especially when you’re stepping into the shoes of a legend. Lucio’s Italian Restaurant in Sydney’s Paddington operated for close to 40 years before it bowed out of the dining scene, with many wondering what would open in its place. The answer is Civico 47, an Italian eatery that’s taking a casual yet refined approach to local dining.
Hospitality speaks to Executive Chef Matteo Zamboni about designing a menu that takes an umbrella approach to Italian cuisine and why a pasta dish with bok choy is stirring up plenty of interest.
They say it’s all in the name, and Civico 47 is not only a nod to the restaurant’s location on 47 Windsor Street in Paddington, but the concept’s overall ethos, too. “Civico means house number in Italian,” says Matteo Zamboni. “The building looks so much like a house, and we wanted to create an experience where people feel like they are going to a friend’s place to have simple and beautiful food.”
The Italian-born executive chef is leading the kitchen after time at Michelin star restaurants in his home country and Japan as well as stints at Ormeggio, Pilu and Jonah’s in Sydney. Civico’s General Manager Andrew Donaghy reached out to Zamboni with the opportunity to take on the role.
“I worked with the general manager before and I knew the people who were opening the restaurant,” says the chef. “We are doing Italian food, but we don’t want to replicate what Lucio’s did; we are humbly going our own way.”
And that involves taking a pared-back approach when it comes to the culinary direction. “We’re trying to do uncomplicated food that is refined with a level of sophistication, but instead of combinations of flavours or techniques, we’re putting attention to detail into presentation and even the crockery, which was carefully selected as we wanted to keep the food very simple,” says Zamboni.
“[Simplicity] is what people enjoy most, especially during a time where we’re coming out of the pandemic. We want guests to come in, enjoy and forget about what’s happening outside.”
Civico’s menu is split into starters/snacks, entrees, pastas, mains, sides and desserts, with dishes influenced by both Northern and Southern Italian traditions.
“It’s more general; there’s no particular region we follow,” says Zamboni. “We aren’t necessarily inspired by tradition; we just look at the dishes we like.”
The chef recommends beginning a meal at Civico with house focaccia served with a generous glug of extra-virgin olive oil and eggplant and miso croquettes; both of which have been popular with diners.
“Everyone should start with a snack,” says Zamboni. “We don’t particularly encourage people to share, but they can when it comes to the entrees and pasta dishes before getting their own main if they want.”
Beef carpaccio with rocket, macadamia, vincotto and Brussel sprouts has proven to be a runaway hit, with the burratina with salsa al basilico and confit tomato another must-order dish.
Zamboni veers away from ‘tradition’ in some dishes more than others. Ravioli with burnt leek, capsicum and black garlic is a stellar example along with mafalde with king prawns, bok choy and tomato.
“The dish is made with a prawn bisque and it has tomato, garlic oil and chilli; quite classic Southern Italian flavours,” says Zamboni.
“The bok choy has a bitter flavour that marries well with the prawn bisque and tomato, which is sweet and acidic, so it’s a nice contrast. Working in Japan was a big learning curve, and there are some ingredients I worked with during my time there which I incorporate when they marry with Italian ingredients.”
Mains revolve around protein options including wild-caught market fish fillet with caper sauce; chuck tail flap with shishito peppers, celery and dates; lamb rump with leek, linseed and desert lime and whole market fish with orange and saffron emulsion.
As for dessert, Hospitality tips the chocolate and coffee bundino with orange caramel as the winner. While Zambino also names the dish as his go-to: “The burnt butter and sage milk gelato with Davidson plum and rhubarb is lighter and more unique,” he says.
Civico 47 has been open for just a few short weeks, but it’s already made itself right at home. “The restaurant is in the heart of the neighbourhood and the feedback has been positive so far,” says Zamboni. “I think people were curious as to what would replace Lucio’s and were looking forward to something new.”
Image credit: Steven Woodburn