New yakiniku restaurant to champion provenance

19 September, 2019 by
Madeline Woolway

Japanese yakiniku restaurant and retail meat shop, Gyūsha, will open in Sydney’s Chippendale’s on 20 September 2019.

The venue, owned by husband and wife Jon and Angie Choi, will showcase Wagyu from their family farm, located an hour northeast of Dubbo, alongside a selection of Wagyu from other Australian producers, with guests able to select a cut and grill the beef themselves at the table. The aim is to encourage a connection between diners and provenance. Japanese-sourced Wagyu will also be on offer, meaning customers can compare beef from different producers, thereby learning about the variations in the meat’s marbling, texture and flavour, which comes from the differences in terroir, feeding program and feed ingredients.

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“The fat content of Wagyu beef can be quite high, reaching up to 80% for the higher marble score cuts and it is not meant to be eaten as a thick steak,” says Jon Choi. “To make the most of Wagyu beef’s high-marbling profile, we serve our Wagyu beef thinly sliced, either as yakiniku or shabu shabu, so that the fat is cooked into the meat, coating the beef in fat to create that juicy, melt in your mouth tenderness. We’re passionate about people making the most of the different types of meat on offer, particularly the different Wagyu beef cuts available.”

While familiar prime cuts will be available, Gyūsha is inspired by the whole animal approach and it’s hoped people will discover secondary cuts too. No matter the choice, a range of dipping sauces will accompany: ponzu, black sesame, white sesame, and a ketchup-based sauce. There’s also staff on hand to divulge the best combinations, take orders for kitchen-prepared sides and drinks.

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Wagyu might be the focus, but seafood and vegetable options are also on the menu, as well as a suite of Japanese curries, don, shabu shabu, sandos, sushi, and sashimi made to order by the kitchen, headed up by ex-Aria chef Kazuyuki Matsumoto.

The drinks list features a comprehensive list of sakes, cocktails, shōchū, Japanese whiskies and beers, while the wine selection sticking to Australian producers.

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The space pays homage to the family farm — Gyūsha translates to “cow shed/the barn door” — with a subtle barn-style interiors including heavy wooden sliding doors, ceiling beams and green tiling throughout the space. There’s seating for 76 customers, including a private dining room with capacity for up to 20 customers.