A team of fine-dining pros has launched Sydney’s latest European bistro with a price point designed for repeat visits.
The restaurant, Bistro Ebony, will have a French and Italian lean. Owner Joey Commerford (The Press Club, Vue de Monde, Royal Mail Hotel) and General Manager Jordan Amaru (NoMad New York, Eleven Madison Park Summer House) built the Pitt St venue on the idea you can eat well without it costing a fortune.
Executive Chef Alessandro Mandelli (Alpha, Grana), originally from Lombardy, has created a concise menu grounded in recognisable European flavours and technique. A small gesture of complimentary bread with black garlic and herbs sets the tone.
Mandelli says Bistro Ebony is about simplicity.
“Classic European cooking has stood the test of time because it doesn’t need embellishment,” says Mandelli. “It’s produce, technique, and balance. At Ebony we keep the flavours recognisable, the plates unfussy, and let the ingredients do the talking.”
Snacks on the menu include parmesan-crusted bite-sized choux buns filled with comté custard and confit shiitake ($12); bluefin tuna vol-au-vent with horseradish cream, tuna tartare mixed with shallots, chives, and capers; tempura zucchini blossom stuffed with spanner crab and mascarpone ($17); and confit lamb belly skewers with rosemary jus and pickled golden beetroot ($14).
Entrees include wagyu tartare enclosing a pocket of stracciatella, topped with house-cured egg yolk and tempura anchovy ($34); Fremantle octopus sliced over whipped cod roe and brushed with pomegranate vinaigrette ($34); WA marron wrapped in kataifi pastry with fermented chilli mayo ($39); and gnocchi Parisienne with confit cherry tomato, buffalo mozzarella and basil ($29).
The mains draw on Mandelli’s northern Italian roots. Highlights include wagyu short rib agnolotti with the filling cooked overnight in veal jus, mixed with mascarpone and parmesan, and served on a bed of celeriac cream ($39); confit duck pithivier layering duck, shiitake, and savoy cabbage in pastry with sour cherry jus ($50); 300g veal Milanese cotoletta served with pomme noisette and veal jus ($52).
The cotoletta and the lamb saltimbocca with truffle pecorino and vincotto ($47) are designed for sharing, and can be paired with options such as a Sardinian fregola with spanner crab in a lobster bisque and tomato sauce with fried soft shell crab ($48); and a roasted cauliflower gratin ($27).
Desserts include crêpes suzette finished tableside flambéed in Grand Marnier sauce and served with vanilla chantilly; apple tarte tatin with salted caramel ice cream ($20); maro crème brûlée ($18); and a Valrhona chocolate tart ($22).
Located on the ground floor of the Angel Place building, Bistro Ebony has been designed as much for weekday lunches as for evening dinners.
Commerford says they have deliberately chosen to be a Monday-to-Friday restaurant.
“The goal is to become part of people’s weekly rhythm,” says Commerford.
“We’re in a corporate building, but the restaurant sits off to the side and once you’re seated you’re more removed from the surroundings than you’d expect.
“The intention is that locals and city workers feel comfortable dining here regularly, because it’s priced in a way that makes that possible, without compromising on quality.”
The drinks program follows the same philosophy as the food. Cocktails are led by Eduardo Conde (2023 Diageo World Class Australian Bartender of the Year, The Maybe Group). Meanwhile, the 85-bottle wine list is curated by General Manager and Sommelier Jordan Amaru and mirrors the European direction of the menu with a strong lean towards French and Italian producers, supported by leading Australian labels.
The bar runs all day, offering a menu that pulls from the à la carte alongside a few more casual plates. Snacks include a burger and fries ($22); steak frites baguette with fries, l’entrecôte sauce and melted provolone which can be paired with a schooner ($25).
Happy hour will run from 4pm to 6pm including $8 Peroni schooners, $10 house wines and prosecco, and a rotating line-up of $8 mini cocktails.
Bistro Ebony also marks Commerford’s first restaurant and is a project that brings together his years of front-of-house experience. Open Monday to Friday for lunch from 12pm to 3.30pm and for dinner from 5.30pm to 11pm. Bar food is available 12pm to 11pm.
Photography by Steven Woodburn.
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