With meticulous precision, an eye for beauty, and a highly refined palate, Derek Kim is a master of his craft.
After moving to Australia, he trained under Chef Ryuichi Yoshii at Yoshii Restaurant in The Rocks. It was in this role that the chef says he built a strong foundation in traditional Japanese cuisine.
He then garnered experience at various restaurants across Sydney, “but it was my nearly nine years at Tetsuya’s that had the most profound impact — shaping not only my technique but also my philosophy around fine dining,” says the chef. Kim served as Tetsuya’s final Executive Head Chef before the revered restaurant closed in July 2024.
Now, thanks to a reference from Tetsuya Wakuda, Kim is leading Prefecture 48’s Kaiseki restaurant Garaku.
“After Tetsuya’s final chapter came to a close, joining Prefecture 48 felt like the perfect way to continue growing, challenging myself, and contributing to something lasting, with heart and purpose,” says Kim.
Newcomer to Sydney scene Prefecture 48 made a splash when it opened in October last year. The Azabu Group precinct holds six venues under its roof – Ibushi robata grill, modern European restaurant Five, Whiskey Thief cocktail bar, Omakase, Dear Florence patisserie, and Garaku. Each menu is carefully considered, presenting a different element of Japanese cuisine.
Garaku presents a truly cinematic and artisanal interpretation of the four seasons, in both the food and setting. The restaurant blends classic kaiseki principles (a traditional Japanese cuisine which presents a series of small, intricate dishes) with contemporary influence.
“Kaiseki is deeply rooted in seasonality and craftsmanship, with a rich variety of traditional techniques. For me, the key is finding the right balance between honouring tradition and embracing modernity,” says Kim.
“At Garaku, we stay true to the essence of kaiseki, while introducing contemporary touches through plating, technique, and the use of seasonal Australian ingredients — creating an experience that feels both authentic and relevant to the here and now.”
Set in the centre of the restaurant, the kitchen is completely open and acts as the diners’ focal point — a feature which Kim says his team must be consistently conscious of.
“At Garaku, the kitchen isn’t just where we cook — it’s the stage of the theatre. Every movement and interaction is part of the guest’s experience. We must remain constantly mindful of hygiene, composure, communication, and even the way we move,” says Kim.
“At the same time, it’s important that we don’t appear stiff; we aim to stay energetic and genuinely engaged. Balancing precision with warmth is a constant challenge, but it’s something we work on together every day.”
Along one wall is Tokyo-based spatial designer Hiroto Yoshizoe’s pixel panel artwork. The artwork shifts and evolves in tone and colour throughout the meal, building into the restaurant’s seasonal atmosphere by representing the seasons.
Kim recently released his Autumn menu – a detailed degustation which celebrates various prefectures of Japan using Australian ingredients, while reflecting “a dialogue between tradition, memory, and the richness of season”.
Kim’s Autumn menu starts with a presentation of the ingredients that will be used — the freshest scampi; rare, deep-sea alfonsino; and raw cuttlefish. The meal follows the traditional Kaiseki seven-part format.
The optional beverage pairings at $120 or $220 pp is a close collaboration between the chefs and the beverage team. “Both the food and beverage pairing menus evolve seasonally, allowing us to reflect the changes in nature and ingredients throughout the year,” says Kim.
The meal opens with ‘sakizuke’ — a typical Kaiseki appetizer that sets the tone of the meal. Kim’s sakizuke is a delicate Tsuyu dashi with yuba and broccolini. The menu moves through ‘hassun’ (a small assortment of dishes, including an exquisite display of knifemanship in the cuttlefish, ikura, and nasturtium dish), ‘otsukuri’ (Hiramasa kingfish paired with shishito and finely sliced honeydew melon), ‘yakimono’ (a traditional Japanese Monaka with foie gras and fig) and ‘suimono’ (alfonsino and mussel in a light broth with spinach and chervil).
The menu culminates with the ‘shusai’ (main) course. Here, Kim plates up “one of the most well-received dishes so far” — Western Australian Marron cooked over charcoal and served with koji butter and a herb bouquet of lemon thyme and tarragon. Guests use the herbs to brush the butter onto the marron, a small act which Kim says “creates a deeper connection between the guest and the dish — something we’re always striving for at Garaku”. Then, the A5 Kagoshima Wagyu, with pine mushroom, cumquat, and optional truffle. And finally, dessert.
Kim’s menu creates an experience that goes beyond just a meal, rather, it invites guests on a journey.
“My goal is for every chef in our kitchen to connect with guests in their own way, so that together, we weave a cohesive and memorable experience. It’s not just about what’s on the plate; it’s about creating a lasting emotional connection,” says the chef.
Photography by Ethan Smart
