THE SHOALHAVEN Coast, south of Sydney starting at Berry and running to the north of Batemans Bay, has long been a favourite holiday escape for Sydneysiders.
Tourism is one of the region’s main industries and the growth rate of permanent residents is one of the highest in the nation.
It is also one of Australia’s emerging boutique wine regions. It officially became Australia’s 95th wine region in 2002.
Like many other wine areas, the history of grape growing is not a modern phenomenon—in this case it dates back to 1864.
It “died on the vine”’ like many others due to lack of interest, knowledge and climate.
The resurgence of the region began when grapes were planted in 1976 at Jasper Valley Wines in Berry, gradually, others followed including The Silos Estate.
The wines were of vin ordinaire quality and interest was mainly confined to cellar door. (The cellar door and mailing lists are still responsible for most sales but the quality of the wines at both operations has improved enormously.)
The Sydney market is obviously a major incentive for NSW wine producers and the region started to be noticed when Coolangatta Estate (established 1988) and Cambewarra Estate (1991)—both located near Nowra—started to produce some excellent wines—many of which have won awards.
Coolangatta was the birthplace of white settlement in the district and was the site chosen for explorer Alexander Berry‘s estate in 1822. One of his ships, Coolangatta, was wrecked off the north coast in 1846.
The Bishop family restored the historical buildings in the area and their son, Greg, decided to establish a vineyard.
An astute businessman, he sought the best advice in the form of Richard Smart, Australia’s world famous viticulturist. Production is small, Tyrrells make the wine, and the cellar door and mailing list ensure the excellent wines sell-out.
The Cole family at Cambewarra planted their vineyard almost as a hobby, but they also took the advice of Smart and have gone from strength to strength.
The grapes are transported up to the Hunter Valley where Tamburlaine makes the wine. Louise Cole who is now the vigneron, has also proved to be a very effective sales force, personally selling wine into restaurants—the products appear on the wine lists of some of Sydney’s top restaurants.
For some years, the four estates mentioned above were the heart of the Shoalhaven wine industry, but as other vineyards have been planted, wines made and cellar doors opened, there is an increasing vibrancy in the region.
There are now 19 wine grape growers, 11 cellar doors and six operating wineries with a total production of 500 tonnes or approximately 400,000 bottles.
Many of the growers use contract winemakers but bottle under their own label. It is still a fledgling industry, production is small (and probably will always be of the boutique variety). Four new vineyards are currently under development. Some good to excellent wines are being made and offer interesting additions to a wine list.
Chambourcin is a favourite grape in the region. It is a French hybrid and loves a maritime climate.
The resultant wine has probably the most intense colour of any red wine, is medium bodied and a slightly perfumed nose. It is a good partner for duck.
Most of the grape varieties perform well, particularly chardonnay, verdelho and cabernet sauvignon, and not surprisingly, some prestigious awards have been handed out to Shoalhaven wines.
Cambewarra Estate
Established in 1991 on 20 acres of dairy land near the Shoalhaven River in the foothills of Cambewarra Mountain: chardonnay, verdelho, sparkling chambourcin, petit rouge (Rose), botrytis chardonnay, vintage port. 520 Illaroo Road, Cambewarra; (02) 4446 0170.
Coolangatta Estate
Steeped in history, the site where Scottish surgeon and explorer, Alexander Berry, used his grant of 10,000 acres and 100 convicts to establish the first settlement on the south coast of NSW. Some of the wines reflect that history by carrying Alexander Berry’s name. Immaculate vineyard (Scott Henry trellising) producing 5,000 cases annually. Full range of varietals including Verdelho, Alexander Berry Chardonnay, Eileen Chambourcin and Elizabeth Berry Cabernet Sauvignon. 1335 Bolong Road, Shoalhaven Heads; (02)4448 7131.
Crooked River Wines
Fourteen hectares planted with a number of varietals including verdelho, chardonnay, arneis, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese
and chambourcin. Winery on site. Winemaker: Bevan Wilson. 11Willow Vale Road, Gerringong; (02) 4234 0975.
Fern Gully Winery
All grapes are grown in the Termeil vineyard, hand-picked then wines are made in the Fern Gully Winery using traditional and modern winemaking practices—temperature control, small open fermenters, manual basket press before maturing in French and American oak barriques. Fern Gully is owned by Glenda and Max Staniford. Max is the winemaker. Small production of chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and chambourcin. 63 Princes Highway, Termeil; (02) 4457 1124.
Seven Mile Vineyard
Established in 1997 by Joan and Eric Swarbrick (Eric is the winemaker), within sound of the surf at Seven Mile Beach on land overlooking the Coomonderry Swamp—one of the largest coastal wetlands in NSW. Hands on pruning, picking and traditional winemaking in the on-site winery. Chambourcin was the first wine produced in 2000, followed by verdelho, chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon and (more recently) petit verdot. 84 Coolangatta Road, Shoalhaven Heads; (02) 4448 5466.
Other wineries in the region
Bundewallah Estate (02) 4464 3600; Yarrawa Estate (02) 4465 1165; The Silos Estate (02) 4448 6082; Lyrebird Ridge Organic Winery (02) 4446 0648; Mopoke Ridge Wines (02) 4422 0049; Nowra Hill Vineyard (02) 4447 8362; Roselea Vineyard (02) 4234 0340; Jasper Valley Wines (02) 4464 1596; Humphries Wines (02) 4447 8773; Kladis Estate Wines (02) 4443 5606.