What the papers said…

7 August 2006 | by Rosemary Ryan

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Defining just what is organic

The growing organic food market in Australia us so under-regulated that consumers have no legal guarantees their product is authentic. Australia is so far behind other developed nations that organic food stakeholders are urgently lobbying the Federal Government to outline a legal definition or organic. While organic product that are exported are required to have a “certified” label the domestic market has no such restrictions. The Daily Telegraph (Sydney) August 5.

Plans to foil salon drinking

Hairdressing salons that serve alcohol to keep their clients happy could be required to take out liquor licences, according to the ACT Office of Fair Trading. Several salons in Canberra serve complimentary glasses of champagne, wine and beer to clients but commissioner Tony Brown said such practices could be in breach of the territory's Liquor Licensing Act.

"The liquor law is clear about it - if you receive benefits from the sale or supply of liquor, then you need to hold a liquor licence," Brown said. Canberra Times (Australia) August 6.

Science cracks it at last, but we have the hottest tips; How to boil a perfect egg

The question has vexed cooks for decades. But now experts at the British Egg Information Service say they have devised a foolproof way to tell when an egg is boiled to perfection: a hi-tech ink logo stamped onto the shell that indicates when the egg is soft, medium or hardboiled. But can a complex culinary art really be reduced to a science? We asked some top local chefs how they cook the perfect boiled egg—and a scientist had his say, too. Sunday Mail, (Adelaide), August 6.

Blue over burgundy

Houghton White Burgundy has been forced to change its name. In future, bottles bearing the white label with a blue diagonal stripe must be labelled Houghton White Classic to comply with European Union regulations. An agreement between Australian authorities and the EU has phased out European place names on Australian wine. Houghton White Burgundy, with 70 consecutive vintages, is the last to disappear. Grange Hermitage is now known simply as Grange, while French names including champagne and Chablis—along with Germany's hock—have long gone. Sunday Mail, (Adelaide), August 6

Gourmet magic back at Versace

Palazzo Versace, on the Gold Coast Broadwater is to once again host the bi-annual Trinity of Gourmet Magic—a coming together of some of the Who's Who of Australia's food and beverage industry. Previous Trinity of Gourmet Magic events have featured some of Australia's best known chefs. On September 21, 22 and 23, the Palazzo Versace Executive Chef Steve Szabo will host another star-studded cast of chefs and sommeliers for this year's extravaganza. He will be joined by Andy North, executive chef from Crown Towers in Melbourne and Philippe Mouchel from Brasserie by Philippe Mouchel, also at Crown. Sommelier Herve Dudognon has invited Christian Maier from Langton's Restaurant in Melbourne and Jeffrey Power from Cru Bar & Restaurant in Brisbane to join him in matching wines to the dishes created by the talented team of chefs. The Sunday Mail (Adelaide), August 6

For Fee's a jolly good fellow

The entrance to Fee and Me is panelled with national and state dining and wine-list awards running from 1992 to 2004—a proud testament to the Launceston restaurant's longevity and record of fine dinning, a record no other establishment in the state comes close to matching. A fortnight ago, Fiona Hoskin and Peter Crowe celebrated the restaurant's 17th birthday. At the same time, their gracious old manor building entered its 171st year. The numerological coincidence promises many successful years ahead. And, for the celebration dinner, chef Hoskin and her talented kitchen staff pulled out all stops to present an elegantly composed 11-course menu. The Sunday Tasmanian, August 6.

Truffles go mainstream

Brillat-Savarin, the famous French gastronome, wrote in the early 19th century: ''Whoever says truffle pronounces a great word, which awakens erotic and gourmand ideas both in the sex dressed in petticoats and in the bearded portion of humanity. ''This honorable duplication results from the fact that the tubercle is not only delicious to the taste, but that it excites a power the exercise of which is accompanied by the most delicious pleasures.'' He concluded with an account of a piece of careful research he undertook into the subject. ''I consulted men in whom professionally great confidence is placed; they formed with me a committee, a tribunal, a senate, a sanhedrin, an areopagus, and we gave the following decision to be commented on by the literary men of the 25th century:'The truffle is a positive aphrodisiac, which may under certain circumstances render women more affectionate, and men more amiable'.'' If so, then this winter, the female affection and male amiability levels in Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide and Hobart must be higher than ever. Fresh truffles have hit the mainstream. Sunday Tasmanian, August 6.

Chefs to watch

Look out Bill Granger, you are under attack. This year's Lexus Young Chef of the Year Award finalists are as keen as mustard and as sharp as boning knives. Each, it seems, also agrees on the critical ingredient needed to stand out: passion. Ben Devlin, a 21-year-old from Brisbane's Restaurant 2, knew his career lay in kitchens when he began washing pots in a Byron Bay cafe at the age of 15. He worked his way up—"having a great lifestyle, surfing in the mornings...wanting to be the best" - and last month beat his boss to become Queensland state finalist. "You have to really use your skills—go with your strengths," says Devlin. Tasmania's state finalist, Iain Todd of Hobart's The Henry Jones Art Hotel, provided a hearty dish of Roast Lamb with Falafel and Peri-peri sauce. Todd, 23, enjoys "free rein" in his kitchen and has an eclectic take on food. The dessert, pictured, is from Beau Vincent, sous-chef at Assiette in Sydney, NSW state finalist and 2006's Young Chef of the Year. Just 24, he has worked with chef Tetsuya Wakuda and loves French cooking; hence his classic sweet, a Frangelico Creme Caramel with Hazelnut Praline. To stand out, "you have to be persistent", he says. "You have to have passion [and] you have to be inquisitive, asking questions all the time." His ambition? "Next year to open a restaurant." The Australian Magazine, August 5

Chefs' prospects sizzle

Today’s chef has to be more than a top cook. With more and more cafes and restaurants opening, owners are no longer chefs, but investors. That has left many chefs running the show. They need to know how to manage a kitchen, be a good cook, get the best deals on buying stock—and balance the books. In such a big industry it is important to get the training of chefs right. Gordon Talty, head of the William Angliss Culinary Academy, says it is important to make sure young chefs are multi-skilled. ''Being a chef is a tough job, so attrition levels are very high. But it is a very rewarding job.'' The catering industry, employing 249,000 people, is a $12 billion industry attracting about 6 per cent of tourists, who select Australia as a destination on the basis of food. Federal Government trend data shows employment in accommodation, cafes and restaurants rose by 61,000 in the five years to February 2005. Herald Sun (Melbourne) August 5

Bowen's crop pain

A police inquiry into last week's poison attack on Bowen vegetable crops has spread state wide. A 10-man police investigation swung into action after an estimated $1 million of produce was destroyed after poison, believed to have been added to the tanks used by a farm spraying contractor, was applied to crops on at least three farms. Officer in charge of the investigation, regional crime co-ordinator Detective Inspector Warren Webber said nearly all farmers in the Bowen area had been interviewed. He said that while Bowen remained the hub of the investigation, the inquiry had spread to other parts of Queensland. Townsville Bulletin August 5

New booze tax plan

Health ministers are considering a new tax on alcohol in a push to stamp out the nation's binge-drinking culture. A new booze tax is one of the recommendations in the 2006-2009 National Alcohol Strategy, which has won backing from Australia's health ministers. Health advocates say taxing alcohol is the only effective way to rein in problem drinking. One of Australia's foremost alcohol policy researchers, Prof Robin Room, said a blanket health tax on alcohol had worked overseas. Taxes in Ireland and the Netherlands caused a sharp drop in problem consumption, he said. Prof Room suggested a 10 per cent levy on beer, wine and spirits would work in Australia. Sunday Herald Sun, August 6


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