HERE WE are at the once thriving inland port and now relaxed tourist destination of Echuca. I’m watching some footy in a local pub, but it gets a little willing about halfway through the last quarter between the folk from a footy trip and some lively lasses on a netball ‘tour’. Time to go and find something a little more elegant.

Thankfully Oscar W’s is an oasis away from these revellers and it’s here the family traipses. Fine dining for families can be tricky at the best of times, but Oscar W’s has done it well for years. We’ve been here before, some years ago, and they treated my youngsters with dignity, and respected that they could appreciate good food too. Given our first experience was so positive, and we were in Echuca, it was time to have another look.

Oscar W’s sits above the Murray River at the east end of the historic port. It’s wise to get there early enough to see the sun set over the river. Boats motor by, paddle steamers toot and the sun sets through the river gums…poetic really.

The menu has changed and, damn it, the kids now like the look of the main list better, so the cheaper kids menu is out of order. No drama as the card has a multitude of options and has nearly all bases covered. It is broken into many categories; breads, charcuterie, small plates, raw tastes, soups and salads, pasta and risotto, entrées and mains and then a selection of beef and sides.

My beloved goes for the crispy fried Soft Shell Crab ($18.20). It comes with a salad of swimmer crab, local avocado, chorizo, fennel and a lime dressing and is terrific with the crab present ed whole atop the salad. The kids and I share some small plates—the entrée serve of crispy fried calamari ($13.90), the chipolatas ($8.90), and fried fish and potato balls ($8.90). It is a great way to get the palate into swing and have children try a few new tastes. The crisp, light calamari comes with a shaved fennel, lemon and chorizo salad and a pot of aioli. Pork, fennel and pepper chipolatas are plump and tasty. The fish balls are soft and fluffy in the centre and partnered with almond and garlic dip. All lovely, well crafted starters.

Mains were just as pleasing. For the eldest is tortellini ($24.9) filled with chicken and parmesan, in a sauce of spring onion, rocket and porcini mushroom cream cappuccino. The youngest has chosen the linguini ($24.80) with beef ragout, crisp capers, gremolata and thyme and parsley oil. It is a hearty and complex dish with excellent, slow cooked ragout well matched to the greenery that’s served as both garnish and key flavour element. The bride opts for the quail ($35.40). It arrives fat and semi-boned on a bed of lentils, with paprika and cumin and a dollop of minted yoghurt. The traditional Moorish spice blend is a family favourite and these work beautifully with the quail. For me is Pork Belly ($26.80), char- grilled and a salad of rocket, pear, coriander and crisp fried leeks. It has a sticky sweet soy reduction with marvellous flavour depth that provides the sweet/salty balance matched so well with pork dishes. As with entrées, there aren’t any plates heading back to the kitchen needing much washing. Service is bright, informative and informal without losing attentiveness.

Children will be children and they remembered the wonderful vanilla bean ice cream from last visit. It came with a small jug of chocolate sauce— some of which went on the dessert, the rest of which was consumed straight.

I preferred to drink the wines that came along with each course that could be ordered in a variety of sizes; 75ml, 150ml, 300ml and 750ml; an excellent idea that allowed the driver (me) to try some different glasses while watching the intake.

I like Oscar W’s a lot because the majority of country restaurants seem to be ultra high end or pretty pedestrian with few beauties in the middle that understand how to balance good service with a quality food and beverage offer. They also know their market of holiday makers and tourists and champion the concept that children needn’t be treated as second class citizens. As with most caring parents, when my kids are looked after well, I am a happy dad.