Jamie Oliver
YOU’VE seen him on TV for years, read his books, probably cooked a few of his recipes and seen his passion for food flow and – yep, Jamie Oliver actually has restaurants too. Not just the Fifteen ones that are still helping kids in various parts of the world (including Melbourne), but a number of trattoria style ‘Italian’ ones located across England.
I confess now that I am a fan of Oliver’s. His passion to move away from fast foods and encourage people to understand what they are eating is close to my heart. We happen to stumble into the Oxford version on a dreary day and found it absolutely packed full of cheery folk who seemed just as keen on Jamie’s food as I am.
Set over several levels in what looks like an old corner shop, it is suitably Italian in nature with full legs of Prosciutto hanging everywhere and big displays of Italian ingredients strategically placed.
As the policy is for no reservations, we are given a place at the bar and handed a numbered buzzer. Apparently we will be hanging about for 15 minutes, not bad—let’s have a look at the drinks list. Our 15 minutes became five and we were at the table downstairs in a flash and seated in a very funky basement space near the semi-open kitchen.
The menu is standard across the various sites (currently numbering ten with another four to open soon) and covers the full spectrum of expected Italian offerings described in a very Jamie Oliver way.
We decide to feast the traditional Italian way—antipasti, pasta, main, dessert. We order a glass of Prosecco and a Pinot Gris to partner the first offering. An antipasti meat plank (£6.65 per person) for two is enough for four and has a terrific selection of charcuterie. There is Prosciutto from San Daniele, Mortadella, flavoursome fennel Salami and some regional Schiacciata. These were alongside some beautiful, creamy, Buffalo Mozzarella, a small bowl of Italian coleslaw with lemon and mint, some weird curly pickles and a few olives. It was presented exactly as anyone who has watched Jamie on TV would expect- rustic, charming and generous.
The pasta is house made and was delicious. The bride opted for the Wild Mushroom Ravioli (£6.65) as an entree and the half moons came filled with a mix of mushrooms, ricotta and parmesan. They were garnished with fried sage leaves and gremolata and are in a little butter—simple and elegant with full, rich flavour. My Prawn Linguini (£6.95) is also a lovely dish with a generous number of prawns accompanied by a little chilli, fennel and cherry tomatoes with a simple olive oil and garlic sauce binding the perfectly cooked pasta. It’s not rocket science, but it is really well done and served professionally and pleasantly.
Mains continue to impress and the rustic theme is back in vogue. My beloved’s South Coast Fritto Misto (£15.95) presented a broad selection of sustainable seafood. All fried in a thin, crispy batter were chunks of pearly white cod, fresh sardines, calamari and prawns artfully presented in a big open paper bag with fried noodles atop. The Lamb Chop Lollipops (£13.95) appeared on another plank with a savage looking knife on the side. However, they required little effort to cut and were deliciously pink and tender. Cooked under a brick on the grill, they were also simply accompanied with soft herbs, a minted sauce and some chopped roasted nuts. We partnered these offerings with some ‘Posh’ Truffled Potato Chips (£3.15) and Gennaro’s Winter Salad (£3.35) of radicchio, roasted pumpkin, sweet red onion, pine nuts and sultanas. All well cooked and creatively presented. Pucker.
We just fit in a Tiramisu (£4.95) to share and are done. We have spent a fantastic couple of hours in the domain of Jamie and have enjoyed every minute. The food has been excellent in quality and presentation. He has shown that a concept can be run out without losing the personality of its mentor and it is clearly a well run place. The staff are attentive and well trained. They also prove that good dining in England need not cost a fortune—and is no differently priced to good pub food in Australia. Jamie’s Italian restaurants are a success in every location and if Oxford is anything to go by—so they should be.
