WITH THE closure of the ancient BHP Steel Works, Newcastle has cast off its reputation for being a dirty industrial city and the levels of sophistication now are so astounding that this provincial city is starting to seriously compete with the capital cities.

Bacchus Restaurant was opened by Anthony and Ali Ventura in 2006 after major refurbishment of the historic Methodist Mission Theatre. In its past it has functioned as everything from a seaman’s mission to a the atrical centre hosting, amongst others, the great Nellie Melba. Now, it hosts one of the most stunning restaurant spaces in the country. The main restaurant works mainly as a la carte and around the edges are clusters of leather lounged areas where tapas and cocktails are served. Tapas is also available at the tables.

On hearing a “new chef” was arriving it seemed he had to be put to the test. This chef turns out to be none other than Tim Montgomery, (ex The Manse, Adelaide and 2006 South Australian Chef of The Year). Montgomery has been working in Europe for a couple of years and now, to the delight of Novocastrian gastronomes, has decided to settle in Newcastle and take over the reins as exec chef at Bacchus. And I can say that after two visits in six weeks the restaurant under Montgomery’s culinary guidance has come up trumps.

The a la carte menu is constructed of only five choices for entrees, mains and dessert. The tapas menu runs separately and is excellent. However, detail of that experience must wait for another time. Montgomery has used a subtle French influence in his combinations and has demonstrated brilliance in combining the basic ingredient with the exotic. For example, for entrees the pork belly is combined with parsnip, pear and vanilla: the tortellini of binnorie labna is combined with pick led walnut: the scallops are combined with lamb’s tongue and nasturtium; the bug tails with sweetbreads and tarragon and the kingfish with beetroot. We’ve had so much pork belly lately. How can this be so new and delicious? The sashimi of kingfish and the lamb’s tongue are so intense in flavour that a morsel suffices.

Similarly the combinations of Wagyu rump and braised cheek with parsley, the duck breast with seared liver, the cod with smoked eel and soft egg showed the skill involved in measuring textures with flavours in small intense servings. There there is the assiette of rabbit which I believe is a triumph. Enhanc ing the rack, the shoulder and leg in such imaginative ways and combining the strong rabbit flavour with liquorice is a culinary feat.

Which brings me to dessert. The Peach Melba a la Montgomery is a gastronomic delight. The peach is poached in saffron and combined with raspberry botry tis sorbet sitting on pistachio soil.

After beginning with an amuse bouche of asparagus vichychoise the meal is also broken with a palette cleanser of jasmine tea and cucumber sorbet.

In 1949 M.F.K. Fisher in her An Alphabet for Gourmets said, “gastronomic perfection can be reached in these combinations: one person dining alone: two people dining in a good restaurant; six people dining in a good home.” Having dined recently several times in Bacchus in Newcastle, in various combinations, I can say confidently gastronomic perfection does lie in the idea of combinations: bringing together flavours and concepts, combining spaces and teams, transforming ideas with dedication and precision. And this is happening in Newcastle…at Bacchus.