THERE’S something special about the Australian tradition of spending your post Christmas time with the family near a beach.
It can be as diverse as the glamour of Palm
Beach or Portsea to the coastal caravan parks and a score of well-loved summer
rentals in between. Each year we hitch up the
caravan and secure a spot with a location impossible to buy just metres from the water. Bliss.
However, all is not well with the weather this
day—it’s too chilly for the beach—so we journey to Barwon Heads for alternative entertainment. Just across the longest timber bridge in
Victoria is the delightful At The Heads restaurant. Fans of the ABC’s Seachange series will
recognise it as the location of Diver Dan’s shack.
These days it’s a thriving business. Jutting out
over the mouth of the Barwon River with views
of the wilds of Bass Strait, I can’t think of many
better places to spend a blustery summer’s day.
We arrive without reservations and luck into
the last available table inside. Menus are passed
and drink orders are swiftly taken. The menu
is a comprehensive selection with a local focus.
We decide to stay regional and order some platters to start. The Ocean Tasting Plate ($35 for
2) is generous and brimming with quality
seafood. Battered flake, crumbed prawns and
grilled calamari are crisp, hot and accompanied
with decent tartare sauce and lemon wedges.
My youngest was offered the children’s menu
and protested; the Regional Produce Plate ($34
for 2) was more appealing to his palate. It draws
on the wonderful produce from the local area
with Point Lonsdale Tomatoes, Portarlington
Mussels, Swan Bay Smoked Trevalla, Mered
ith Fetta, Western Plains Salt cured Pork and
Drysdale Yoghurt. Only the Daylesford Prosciutto has a journey of more than an hour to
join the others on the plate. It’s a celebration
of the diversity and quality of the produce on
offer in what remains a strong farming region.
In keeping with the local theme we partnered
these with a Bannockburn Sav Blanc ($45).
Given the size of these platters others at the
table were glad to have chosen mains from the
entrée section. I opted for the fish special which
came as a lovely slab of Blue Eye ($30) seared
and slightly crusted in a pan, but retaining its
firm, moist texture; accompanied by an Italian
style salad of broad leaves, artichokes and zucchini, it’s a terrific dish with robust flavours. My
beloved chose the entrée Scallops ($21) that
come plump and minus the roe, seared and sit
ting individually atop a dollop of pureed dahl.
This pretty presentation is highlighted with a
drizzle of curry oil and a small Asian-style sal
ad. It is a delightful dish full of flavour and the
balance of ingredients was terrific. King George
Whiting ($19/$27) came in two sizes and the
small one was perfect for my youngest and still
a sizeable meal.
Pizza ($16) for my eldest is a fine specimen.
Topped with Istra leg ham, cherry tomatoes and
boccocini, as well as a waft of basil oil and some
greenery, it fills the main size plate. Lastly, we
opted for a sensational baby beetroot salad
($17) to share with tender beets, spinach, goat’s
cheese, orange segments and a tangy dressing of
fresh horseradish and raspberry vinaigrette.
Replete after mains it’s decided that if any
dessert is to be had then it must be the Lemon
Tart ($8) from the display the ladies had noted
on the way in. It arrived with a strong lemon
presence in the creamy filling, but a crust that
was a touch too thick. A small blemish in what
had been an excellent experience.
At The Heads is an example of what can be
achieved with a great site. The building and the
view do much to enthuse the diner, but with
out good food, service and a sense of style then
the benefit of the vista would be lost. The world
is full of ordinary restaurants in fantastic locations that trade on little more than their view.
Thankfully this is not in that category and presents fine food to match the magnificent setting.