New waves of chefs are returning to the skill of de-boning and aging their own meat.

Butchering an animal carcass in the kitchen went out of fashion some years ago, with abattoirs and butchers taking over that job. However, with the new focus on getting the food closer to the source, numerous chefs are reviving the tradition of butchering their meat, and teaching a new generation of chefs the skills of deconstructing their food.

Matt Waldron, head chef and owner of Lulo in Melbourne, breaks down the pigs and goats served at his restaurant and is planning to do the same with lamb soon.

"You save a lot of dollars, and in these times that's a help,” Waldron says. “It also makes you work with a little more care."

Waldron buys directly from the producers, which gives him greater control over the produce. "We tell them how big we want it, and we get it delivered to those specifications," he says.

However, while breaking down the animal might save money, it does require additional space. To combat this, Waldron only orders a little at a time and the animals arrive on different days to spread out the load.

Having a helping hand is also important, says Waldron, who has three experienced chefs working with him. "I have a fantastic team that loves the idea of breaking down the animal and fully utlising the produce."

Waldron doesn't use special equipment for the work, but does admit a belt driven slicer would make things easier. He adds: "Once you have done it half a dozen times it gets easier."

Ben Higgs, executive chef and owner of Wild Oats Restaurant, at Olinda in Victoria’s Dandenong Ranges, grew up in the country and says much of his interest in using the whole animal comes from that upbringing.

"I always had a big interest in it. I used to volunteer at the butcher shop, so that I could watch them do it," says Higgs.

Higgs says that by getting the whole animal in,chefs have a better understanding of the cuts and where they come from.

"A lot of those skills are being lost now; I have two apprentices who, because of the convenience of having things delivered all ready to go, don't know how to do the basics."

Higgs can't break down an entire cow carcass, so instead he buys a section of the animal which he hangs at his butcher's shop.

"These days they don't let the beef age enough. They kill it, slice it and package it up straight away. I let my meat hang for three weeks."

However, fully utilising a carcass depends on whether you can up sell the secondary cuts and bones. "You also have to factor in the labour costs of deconstructing the animal. And if you are going to do a lot, you need a band saw and some hanging rails."

He adds: "As long as you are hanging the beef and cutting from a section of the animal you are heading in the right direction."