Australian consumers may be eating less red meat than ten years ago, but despite the financial pressures they are now demanding better quality in the meat that they do put on their forks.

Figures from Meat and Livestock Australia show Australians ate 49.7kg of red meat in 2007/08, with beef accounting for 35.6kg per person during that period.

Over the past forty years red meat consumption has fallen by 37.5 per cent, a trend that has meant restaurants and growers had to come up with new and interesting options to tempt consumers.

These days when it comes to meat there’s free-range, organic, grass fed, grain fed and exotic breeds of animals on menus across the country.

Good news is that with falling export prices, premium meat should become even more affordable for the industry, with sales to our biggest buyers Japan and Korea already down four to six percent and bigger falls expected.

Following beef, the second most consumed meat in Australia is pork, which is finding a market amongst more health conscious consumers and chefs.

Anthony Puharich, co-owner of Vic's Premium Quality Meat, says there has been an increase in interest in white breeds of pigs which produce a leaner cut.

Free range and organic pork are also growing in popularity; however, Puharich claims not all pigs are suitable for this style of breeding. And, according to Australian Pork only five per cent of the continent is suitable for free range production.

Going into winter, Puharich says pork is used mainly for roasting and slow braising, “although we’re also seeing grilling and pan frying being popular”. While belly, loin and neck continue to be popular with consumers and chefs, hock and tenderloin are also gaining favour.

Puharich adds: “The best value cut is neck without question. Neck and rump are the two most underrated cuts.”

Whole baby pigs are also making their mark at many top restaurants including Pilu at Freshwater where suckling pig has become one of chef Giovanni Pilu’s signature dishes, and at Bècasse in Sydney.

Bècasse chef and owner, Justin North, is one chef who likes to buy and use the entire pig. North sources his pork from Melanda Park Free Range Pigs, located in northern New South Wales. The farm breeds free range Cornish Blacks (English Large Blacks) and Landrace pigs, which are the second most common pig in Australia, after the large white.

Owner and farmer Lee McCosker originally intended to breed organic pigs, but after investigating the costs and availability of organic feed she decided it was not viable. “During my research on pigs I dis covered that people are more concerned about the way the animals are grown rather than what they are fed.”

McCosker says she’s seen the interest in humane farming increase since the business started, a little over a decade ago, which she puts down to greater public awareness and campaigns by animal welfare groups. “People are becoming more aware of how pork is grown,” she says. “They are pretty shocked when they find out how the intensive industry grows pigs.”

However, as demand for humane farmed animals increases, so to does the number of unscrupulous operators, says McCosker, who is Humane Choice Ac credited by Humane Society International.

“We have tried to take some of them to the Australian Competition and Consumers Commission, but as there is no legal definition of free range, there is noth ing we can do. Hopefully people can tell by the flavour and colour of the meat.”

Adelaide chef Bethany Finn from Urban Bistro is one of the growing number of chefs using free range and boutique pork breeds. Finn uses Berkshire pork from specialty Barossa Valley producer Schu Am Free Range Pork and says she has noticed a swing towards some of the more unusual breeds. “The quality of the pork and the breed have become more of a focus in recent years,” she says.

Where pork belly was once god, she says cutlets are starting to be incorporated on menus, although, they are still selling a lot of pork belly.

Finn sees it as a restaurant’s duty to provide customers with new and interesting dishes. “Restaurants are at the forefront of what people are eating,” she says.

“If people see something on a menu- they try to recreate it at home. By buying quality products; people see there is a better way and better produce.”

The great Australian tradition of lamb is also getting an ethical maker over with a growing number of producers using organic and free range products such as salt bush lamb.

South east Queensland producer, David Graham, known for his television appearances as “Farmer Dave” is one farmer growing ethically treated sheep which he bred specially to be suitable for the Australian climate through cross breeding.

Lamb produced by Farmer Dave Free Range Lamb, is also organic as no chemicals or growth hormones have been used during their growth. “My family has always believed in a certain degree of sustainability, abstaining from the use of chemicals and hormones,” he says.

“I think that the general public wants to know where their food comes from and how it’s treated.”

Top restaurants in Brisbane and the Sun shine Coast, such as Ecco Bistro, regularly use Graham’s lamb, and when he first launched he could barely keep up with demand.

Today he has his own herd of 2500 sheep and uses other farms which have also become humane choice approved. Graham says this style of farming is a natural progression in a society that increasingly shuns practices such as tail docking. “The meat industry will find that the public perception of animal treatment is changing,” he says.

Beyond being more sustainable and ethical, Graham says his lamb is tastier as the animals are not stressed and their meat is tenderer.

Having tender meat is one of the main reasons for Sydney chef, Craig Macindoe, choosing only grass fed, or pasture fed beef, organic chicken, free range pork and salt bush lamb.

The owner and head chef at Mumu restaurant is an advocate of free range and sustainable products, not only because of the moral benefits but also the taste and health benefits. “The main reasons I chose grass fed beef were health benefits, flavour and sustainability,” says Macindoe.

Despite the success of Mumu, Macindoe has not seen many chefs following his lead and instead has seen a greater number of steakhouses serving grass fed and grain fed beef side by side. This has however, affected the availability and price of good quality beef, forcing him to buy in bulk and shop around more.

While the economic downturn is hurting many foodservice venues, Macindoe says his customers are continuing to order his pricier meals, “but are being more frugal with their beverage choice” and bringing more BYO.

As the cooler weather hits Sydney Macin doe says he will be looking at doing more slow cooked meals, which use cheaper cuts of meat. They include dishes like his slow roasted Arcadia saltbush lamb done two ways—slow roasted shoulder plus a grilled cutlet—served with pea and mint puree and kumato chutney with mache (lambs tongue lettuce), and slow roasted Bangalow sweet pork. He also braises blade steak cuts for his meat pies.

One of the growing number of grass fed beef producers, John Keats from Melross Farm in the Kangaroo Valley also claims that grass fed beef are healthier—for the animal and for the consumer. He’s been growing pasture fed vealers, which are nine to 12 month old Angus cows, for seven years. “It’s important people know that if you want to eat ethically grown animals, the animals need to be free roaming, free to run in a paddock and eat naturally.”

While it’s generally acknowledged that grass fed beef is more expensive than grain fed, Keats says this can vary depending on what the export market is doing, as a lot of our premium beef goes there.

A recent study by Penfolds Research found beef and lamb prices have increased by six to seven percent in the past year, but quality and range have also improved.

MLA marketing manager for trade, Lachlan Bowtell, says that in the past five years there have been significant gains in eating quality of beef and lamb with constant improvements in supply and product consistency. “More brands and specialist products on the market make beef and lamb the best value menu option for the progressive foodservice operator,” he says.

Bowtell says foodservice operators that want an edge on their competition are finding the vast range of cuts and product styles available to them in beef and lamb great additions to their menus as consumers are willing to pay a little extra for the plate.

In recent months overall sales in the foodservice sector have dropped as a result of lower discretionary spending by consumers that’s been driven by the economic climate. Along with that demand for meat has dropped in the last six months by seven percent.

However, when viewing the long term trends in consumption it is clear both beef and lamb have enjoyed positive volume growth in foodservice, at an average two percent per annum for both meat types (Penfolds Research: Foodservice Meat Tracking Study—November 2008).

The MLA says another fallout of the global downturn looks like being a deepening of consumers favouring “comfort” foods which is good news for smart foodservice operators. “With the global financial crisis and economic downturn really hitting home, consumers are ordering more traditional, comfort style meals, using food as an emotional crutch or as a window into the ‘good-old days’,” Bowtell says. “Chefs are turning back to the meals which use non prime cuts, such as ragu or and osso bucco to give consumers the simple pleasures they seek in a restaurant menu.”

The MLA has also noted a trend toward cuts on the bone, such as the traditional T- bone, which are gaining great prominence on menus in every day establishments.

There has also been a growth in steak house restaurants in Australia, despite the premium prices such establishments charge, says Bowtell. “Consumers see steakhouses as traditional, known entities; a steak is really tangible for a consumer and is not seen as a risky choice for some one whose purse strings are tighter than they were six months ago,” he says.

Research by Penfolds into the popular ity of cuts meat in foodservice also shows that consumption of steaks, beef ribs and beef rumps is up as well as lamb cutlets, back-straps, shanks and lamb rumps.

However, because of the tighter operating conditions, Bowtell suggests food service outlets look at using lower cost ingredients, such as non prime cuts of meat, regardless of the season.

“Customers still want to see red meat on the menu; but they have less money to spend on it,” Bowtell says.

“They are moving back to favouring traditional, old-style flavours and dishes; these red meat cuts perform perfectly with traditional cooking methods.”

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