Australians’ taste for cheese is continuing to mature, with the types and styles we consume changing dramatically in recent years according to cheese connoisseurs.

Free trade agreements and changes to legislation has seen the variety of cheeses avail able swell, but some still claim we are limited compared to overseas markets, because of restrictions on raw milk cheese.

The regulations in place on the Australian dairy industry require the heat treatment of milk (pasteurisation) to ensure a high level of dairy product safety.

“We are being denied a choice and local producers are being denied a choice to make raw milk cheeses,” claims Will Studd, cheese connoisseur and managing director of Fromagent Australia. “We are missing out – it’s very regrettable.”

A review of the regulations and a new proposal are currently being undertaken by Food Standards Australia and New Zealand (FSANZ). The submission paper to allow a greater number of raw milk cheeses from overseas into Australia and production of some raw milk cheeses will be presented at the September board meeting. Following public consultation of the review the earliest changes could be made to legislation would be mid 2011 according to FSANZ spokesperson Lydia Butchmann.

The only raw milk cheeses allowed into Australia at present are Roquefort, extra- hard grating cheeses such as Parmesan and Romano, and three Swiss cheeses Emmental, Gruyere and Sbrinz.

However, the introduction of legislation to allow more raw milk cheeses to be imported or produced here would undoubtedly be accompanied by strict regulations and procedures.

“For a community that prides itself on good quality dairy products, compared to our international peers, we are losing out,” claims Studd, who has more than three decades of experience in the cheese industry and is a well regarded cheese master.

Like many cheese connoisseurs, Studd considers raw milk cheeses to be of a more complex flavour and texture, than pasteurised cheeses. Its absence is of particular concern for Studd as he says the Australian palate for artisan cheeses has flourished in recent years, and with limited raw milk cheeses available there is little room to grow.

“There is a strengthening demand for artisan cheeses, as part of a revolution we have seen building in the last 10 years in response to the mass produced cheeses we were given in the past.”

Data from Dairy Australia supports Studd’s claims, with a drop in consumption of traditional bulk cheese such as cheddar, in favour of more artisan cheeses such as Brie and Camembert.

However, cheddar is still the most consumed cheese in Australia with 135,910 tonnes consumed here in 2007/08. Pecorino, Edam, Brie and Camembert all showed significant increases in consumption between 2006/07 and 2007/08. Edam cheese, from Denmark, had the biggest growth with an increase of 349 per cent year on year between 07/08 and 06/07. Brie and camembert were next in line, with an increase of 32 per cent year on year, while Pecorino had a 24 per cent increase. Despite our move away from full cream cheddar, the low fat option in creased by 20 per cent, in response to growing scrutiny on health and fat content.

Naomi Crisante, cheese educator and TV presenter, says along with fresh-style cheeses such as ricotta, goat’s cheese and fetta, there is also great interest at retail level in Haloumi as a cheese for entrée, salads and the barbecues.

“Primarily the shift from processed cheeses to natural varieties has been the strongest trend over recent years. Australian consumers are, however, growing their knowledge and experimenting with new varieties of cheese that they may not have grown-up with.”

Studd cites the broader interest in cheeses as being a result of restaurants, cafes and delicatessens providing a greater range of cheeses. “I think restaurants have done a good job under the circumstances,” says Studd.

However, while having a cheese on a restaurant list is a good endorsement, the experts says it is even more important for the cheese to be ripe and served correctly.

This is something GPO Cheese & Wine in Sydney takes very seriously under the direction of fromager and cheese judge Sonia Cousins. The dining venue and retailer has more than 100 cheeses on hand at any one time, but has only 25 cheeses on its dine-in menu, which are brought to room temperature for consumption, to improve their smell, taste and texture. “Cheese tastes better when served at room temperature,” says Cousins. “Like wine, a lot of cheeses that come from the fridge are too cold to enjoy.”

While customers can request a cheese not on the dine-in menu, Cousins says the cheeses listed are chosen because they’re in season and at their ripest. The cheese list is generally split 50/50 local and imported cheeses. Most overseas cheeses are French or Italian.

The most popular choices are Brie and Camembert, although even there Cousins says she’s seeing a trend towards fuller flavoured options. “As we become more ad venturous, our customers do too,” she says. “They’re starting to try new cheeses, ones stronger in taste, and smellier. They’re also trying more interesting looking ones and ones from different types of milk.”

In helping people expand their cheese repertoire, Cousins says she often gives people something similar to what they asked for For example, if they ask her for Brie and cheddar she interprets it as them asking for a soft and a hard cheese. While not wanting to dictate their tastes, Cousins instead gives them one and then suggests they try some thing similar to the other they requested.

“This way, they are trying something new within their comfort zone”, she says. “We want people to come here and have a nice time, but also to try something new.”

To accompany the cheeses GPO has a selection of crackers, dried fruit, fresh fruit, glace fruit, jams and chutneys. A popular accompaniment at the moment unique to GPO is a hibiscus chutney made from preserved hibiscus flowers, which Cousins says is particularly good with blue cheeses.

Cheeses are mainly served on wooden boards; however the flights of wine and cheese—three cheeses matched with three wines accompanied by tasting notes—are served on glass plates so the diners can see through to the tasting notes. To ensure every thing is served in perfect condition Cousins says staff are required to smell, touch and even taste the cheese to ensure its quality. “Like a sommelier with wine, we have to make sure the cheese is still in perfect condition,” Cousins says.

Wholesaler Lynne Tietzel, director high- end retailer Australia on a Plate, agrees with Cousins that there’s been a noticeable increase in demand for cheeses made from non-cow milks. “We now have an incredible cross section of milk types available in Australia, like buffalo, goat and sheep.”

The increase in non-cow milk cheese is a result of greater education among consumers according to Tietzel. “Customers are highly educated about choice now. They understand different moulds and that cheese is not supposed to be pristine.”

Tietzel says goats cheese in particular has hit a chord with consumers and is being increasingly featured on cheese boards. All three cheese connoisseurs agreed Australian made goat’s cheese was the highest quality style of cheese made in Australia. “I think this comes from the quality of our animals and the level of experience amongst our artisan cheese makers,” adds Tietzel.

While we’re eating a greater variety of cheese, it seems many Australians are keeping to the tradition of cheese as an after dinner option, but more chefs are using cheese as a key ingredient in their dishes.

“Cheese has been liberated from the end of the meal,” Tietzel says. “Chefs are realising they can use cheese as a course during the meal. It’s starting to be used for more than just salads and cheese boards.”

One of Australia on a Plate’s regu lar customers is Keith Higginson, executive chef of the hospitality group Vardis, which owns Sydney venues such as Kingsleys Steakhouse, Steer sons Steakhouses, and Velero.

Higginson is a cheese fanatic and uses cheese extensively on his menus. Like others he has seen a change in the cheeses we are consuming, but has a different reason for the progress. “There is definitely a lot more variety coming through,” he says. “There is a lot more Spanish and Italian cheese to choose from, which I think is a result of the surge in tapas-style menus.”

At one of the group’s restaurants, Velero, a wine bar style venue, Higginson is working to have cheese made more of a focus with a section of the menu devoted to cheese and antipasto style platters. “There seems to be a perception here that cheese is something you have at the end of the meal, not beforehand.”

At the groups’ Kingsley Steakhouse, Higginson says cheese platters at the end of the meal are very popular as people are generally drinking red wines with their mains and want to stay on the reds.

The steak houses in the group regularly favour Australian cheeses but Velero is a European style venue and therefore needs to serve European style cheeses, says Higginson.The British born chef is starting to feel the effects of the weak Australian dollar on his cheese passion, however, and says it’s something they will need to look at more closely in the future, as prices of overseas cheese rise.

Along with an extensive wine list, Velero also has an extensive Sherry list, which Higginson says is regularly matched with the cheeses on the menu. “Sherry goes really well with some of the stronger cheeses such as the blues or the Roquefort’s,” he says.

One thing Higginson has noticed about Australian tastes when it comes to cheese is the affection for quince paste as a pairing, something Europeans don’t do. To meet the demand for it he’s started making a quince and a fig paste from scratch when the fruits are in season.

One restaurant unlikely to serve quince paste is Guillame at Bennelong. Owner/head chef Guillaume Brahimi is a cheese expert, and takes a “purist” approach to accompaniments.

Cheeses are served at the table from a cheese trolley accompanied only by some breads or crackers, which are served warm, and some muscatel grapes and, if in season, some figs. Brahimi is a regular judge at cheese awards and is not surprisingly biased towards French cheeses. Of the 10-15 cheeses on the menu at his restaurant, only two or three are Australian.

Bennelong maitr’d Craig Hemmings says most guests have cheese as a substitute for dessert, while their degustation menu includes a cheese course before dessert.

While cheese is a more expensive dessert option, Hemmings says it is not a great money earner for the restaurant. “We’re very generous with the cheese,” he says. “The problem with cheese is that if you offer it as a money making dessert option, it’s counter productive. If you serve the pieces too small, you just end up looking nasty.”

When pairing drinks to the cheese, Bennelong offer flights, or tastings, of more than 120 fortified wines, however, both Hemmings and Bennelong sommelier John Clancy say most customers would still choose to have table wine with their cheeses.

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